When do you turn on the juice?

[rickk]

I just recently bought a gps and shocker combo to help me with an occasional deer burner I have. I know that I dont want to shock a dog unless im sure its running off game. In the past Ive waited to long to give them the juice/e collar teatment and my 1 mile tritronics wouldnt reach them. At what range or distance do you guys give a dog to start turning the circle before you give it to them full force? Im looking forward to using my new sportdog tek1.

[Hippy]

This is pretty much a judgment call. I like to actually put the dog down where I have seen Deer- I drive 95 # Miles to run with a buddy of mine and usually arrive before daybreak. This area is full of Deer and Rabbits- Insustrial Park with a subdivision, Rail Road and highways.

I let them run just long enough to tell that they have a Good Nose full of Deer and then JUICE them- I also bump them one or two more times on their way back to me just to make sure they know BAD DOG, since it is fairly flat land I can be sure it is Deer that they are running.



I would much rather break them this way then to wait till Rabbit season

JIm

[BCBeagles]

Just an observation I have seen in many of my hounds, and in raising a few. I notice in a high percentage a difference in there mouth on junk. Maybe I am too analytical, but paying extremely close attention has helped me a lot!

I do as well like to stage the junk, aka deer, I will let them get going good about 50 yards or so then quickly give them a strong reason to stop.

Next in the process I stage the event a little more like a hunt, I then catch them on deer scent, head down in the tracks, then give them another moderate reminder. It is the scent you want them to avoid, not opening or running, IMO.

Good luck!

[Mo. Beagler 5000]

I also have two dogs that if they are on a deer or off game their bark changes almost instantaneuosly to higher pitched and longer chops. The other ones I can't tell..

I think the FASTER YOU POP EM THE BETTER!!! If you wait too long after they start running them for some reason it seems they go back to running it later.. But to me, the dogs I pop within seconds of opening on a deer, never do it again. I don't know why thats the case but it is...

[fjg2]

if this is the first time you have used a collar on these dogs? then you have a fair amount of homework ahead of you first. You must teach the dog when juiced they have to come back to you to stop the stimulation; if you just take him out hunting / jump a deer and begin juicing there is a good chance the dog will run in a direction other than to you!

I have seen many of my hunting buddies ruin dogs with an e-collar; they juiced them too high and too much which resulted in a hound that will run back to the truck and hide under it and will not go hunting anymore that day; I have seen several of my pals reduce their dogs hunting in a major way with the collar, the dog I am referring to is now a lazy hunter that is more focused on not losing his owner and walks around him very lazily. Take the e-collar off him and he is a brush busting maniac!

I like to take my younger hounds out in a long hay field with hedge rows around it but not enough cover that they can get out of sight; walk them around until they start getting 150 yds out then give them a warning tone and call them back; watch the response you get, if they ignore you, give a burst of #1 and watch them again, if they still ignore you bump them on #2 until they stop hunting and they are focused on the correction, its very important to see and train them "when they are juiced they MUST come to you" some hounds will try to take off running away from you, you must hit them harder until you stop them from taking off, you must call them back with a kind / concerend if not sympathic voice, I tell my inexperienced new hunting buddies to call them back like "you found bees over there huh rover, I will help you" they must relate YOU as their savior!!

you cant monitor what you do next if you cant see them! never give them more than what it takes to gain "some" of their focus, try not to shock when you are torqued off, let your buddy do it at that point.

When hunting I drop my tailgate / collar the dogs with e-collar and trackers and then them go, I prefer spots where we have to walk 300 yards or more to get to where we are going to hunt, make the dog handle and stay around you, they will learn quickly after 6-8 times out to listen to you, develop a command that makes them work towards you and stick with only that command.

after you have handling control on them, then and only then are you ready to go looking for a deer; pick a spot where you can see VERY well, cast the dog first alone and walk over the deer track, I dont shock them for smelling it, but I do shock them for tracking the deer; voice given or not! give them only what it takes to make them come to YOU..... talk nice to them; again you are their savior, I see many guys that holler and cuss at them on their way back and you can see the hound is not really thrilled about coming back to the handler / the hound is also comtemplating maybe going a different dirtection or just stop hunting.
After stopping a deer run I will walk them away in a big circle and come right back to where I know they were running that deer and see if they want to try it again? the smart one know~~~~~~~~~~ at that point they may even give you the look like a kid that knows he is going to get his butt busted.

I try to stop them as early as possible and deer chase is confirmed; I have seen guys that shciekd their hounds hard when it was really a sight chase on a rabbit ......thats not cool

The biggest thing is getting them to come back to you and look for you when stimulated.

The real challenge is breaking them when other dogs run deer, but its the same deal, as long as all dogs in the pack have expericned the solo deer stop you can retreive them quickly. But if you mix hounds that have not been stopped before or hunt with other fellas that dont shock them / or worse yet other fellas hounds that dont handle after stopping; you will be in a real struggle with this task. Its VERY difficult to run & stop a moderately broke dog with one that is really blistering a deer; our hounds love the thrill of the chase more than they like food!!

never shock a dog hard until you know without a doubt he is running deer; I have run after dogs for two miles only to find they are running a march hare!

good luck & enjoy; but I would do the homework first!

[PREACHERS KENNEL]

in short fast as possible . ..then i like to make sure i get them on a rabbit ,..

[DIXIEDOG]

At least when running hare I've seen dogs runs out 700 yds straight line with a hare before turning....I'd go for a method of breaking dogs from deer where you can get a visual as mentioned above. I'd hate to shock my dogs off a rabbit because I thought it might be off game.

[19rabbit52]

Quit often I wait to late. I shock as soon as I'm sure it's a deer. I like-em to fart lightening bolts. I do know the best way to break is to take rides looking for deer. Throw red hankerchief out exactly where deer is. Go down rode a little, walk dog back and shock as soon as you can tell dog smells deer (like tail wagging). It works if you are consistant. I do wish I would take my own advice on this more often.

[rabbit chaser]

If i don't see it, they don't get it but if i DO see it they get the full ride on my highest setting. I've only had to do it one time and as far as i can tell he is now broke and passed up numerous deer since.

[warmule]

you want your dog to think the scent is what hurting him i break mine from time hes pup if you kill a deer or buddie kills one lay it out in yard bring pup out when he comes up to it and smells it bunp him a little he will jump back next time he comes back up to it hit him a little harder dont say anything let him think that scent done it to him you could use deer scent on rags do same thing ive been doing this with snakes to i find dead ones or black snakes and do same thing hopefully when they smell a snake they wont try to get closer so far this year aint got one bit

[LR Patch]

I don't know , but do u really think all snakes smell the same ? I know a man that can smell a cotten-mouth , says they smell like cumcumbers but don't smell other snakes ? I've seen him do it more than once.

[warmule]

yeah i heard that all my life i believe there a weed that smells like cucumber i still look all allaround when i smell it most time my dogs didnt get bit while running its either before race or when they where comeing back in after race i figure they see it and try to kill it this morning one of my young dogs all of a sudden jumped back i blieve he smelled one but i couldnt find it

[rickk]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Appreciate it.. I have ran them across a deer track before and when they took off with it I layed it to them. And then put them on a rabbit and they ran well. It just seems like if there in the game running bunnies they wont touch a deer track but if we have been out a couple hrs and havent jumped any rabbits and a deer jumps in there face, they will still chase it. I am also a deer hunter and Im going to try taking the hide or the whole deer and let them get close and when they do. Ill give it to them like suggested. Sooner or Later I will teach these dogs to be deer proof but for now im not 100% confindent in them. Most places I hunt are so thick that I cant always see when this happens. I will also try to pay more detailed attention to the tone of there bark. The only sign i have for now is when they take off fast and in a straight line I assume its a deer. I guess its just a judgement call. I have yet to shock a dog that was running a rabbit but also am guilty of waiting to long to make the judgement call and its too late and there out there to far to shock with my 1 mile tritronics. But with my new system is supposed to reach 7 mile hopefully this will help.