Question: about correcting *The Rabbit Dog*

Canepole · Post by **Canepole** » Sat Mar 20, 2004 7:56 am

Hello again,
I mentioned in another post about having four dog's ,Only one of them run's rabbits, and I started working with him, taking him out when he was just barely walking and he would come to me, when ever I called him "no problem" now he's about a year and a Half old I take him out, and he has started ignoring me, and when I get close to him he run's, And its getting to be a real pain in the rearend trying to catch him, Please tell me how to correct this problem,

Drive-On Kennels · Post by **Drive-On Kennels** » Sat Mar 20, 2004 8:13 am

every beagle pup I have raised has done the exact same thing yours is doing to you. I have an electronic training collar. start by using the lightest setting. use common sense, IF you have four beagles, spend the money and buy one, it will be the best money you ever spent.

rimshot · Post by **rimshot** » Sat Mar 20, 2004 8:26 am

I also have this problem sometimes with young dogs. Most will grow out of it, but it is a pain trying to catch a dog. The e-collar works great, but be real careful with it. I use a weedeater cord when I start taking young dogs to the woods if they are a little hard to catch. It takes a few trips before they like to ride. They are easy to catch this way. I hope this helps you some. Good running..

Emery · Post by **Emery** » Sat Mar 20, 2004 9:45 am

A little yard work would help to correct this problem as well. Get him to come to you and then give praise or a treat for a reward. Don't scold him even if it takes you a half an hour to get him to come. Positive reinforcement works wonders. Giving him a thrashing when you do catch him is just going to make him want to run away all the harder because he knows what is coming when you do catch him.

Hope this helps.
Emery

illinois boy · Post by **illinois boy** » Sat Mar 20, 2004 10:31 pm

you might try putting him on a long rope and call him to you if he don't come give him a hard yank and pull him to you saying come after once or twice of this he will get the picture.

DarrinG · Post by **DarrinG** » Sun Mar 21, 2004 1:20 am

A couple of years ago I had a young female that, while she minded like a dream in the yard, once she was out in the fields, she would turn a deaf ear to me and was hard to catch. She was in no way timid or shy, she just wanted to stay and run. An old timer beagler told me to find me a 15ft or so section of weedeater line and tie to her collar. When I was ready to leave and she wouldn't let me catch her, when she got near, just step on the weedeater line that was dragging behind her and reel her in while calling her name.

I also started doing this anytime she was near me in the field and not running a rabbit and it wasnt long before she started handling perfectly. I guess it took just showing her that just because she was out of the yard that she still had to mind me and that I could control her actions regardless.

Joe West · Post by **Joe West** » Sun Mar 21, 2004 7:49 am

The fault is yours and not the hounds. You have allowed the hound to get away with not comeing to you and now the hound knows that by running away from you he will get away with not obeying your commands.

To fix it go back to the yard training, first on a lead and then in an enclosed yard and do about 5 minutes of yard training at a time. Twice a day well spaced out won't hurt. When you give the command give it in a authoritative voice and if the command is not immediatly obeyed run at the hound giving the down command in a harsh tone of voice and gently push the hound into the down position with your hand. After the hound has been in the down position for a few second call the hound too you. You will be right there but it gives the hound the signal that it is alright to get up. Praise the hound and let him know he is the greatest hound on earth. Just repeat that until commands are obeyed instantly, first on the led and then in an encolsed yard.

The next step is to go into open country. Do not give any commands until you are close to the hound and when the command is given if it is not obeyed instantly then you must run at the hound giving the down command just as in the yard and push him into the down position.

Warning: If the hound somehow gets away from you, you must pursue him until he is caught. He MUST learn that it is better for HIM to obey you. If you allow him to disobey and go back to hunting he has beaten you. Good long outings in the field will help this a bit. Hounds that don't think they are getting enough running time will certainly tend to disobey when it is time to go home. Especially young hounds.

Over handleing in the field will also cause hounds to disobey so just don't give any unnecissary commands in the field. Really the only time it should be necessary to give a command in the field is when it's time to leave or in an emergency.

Steve C. · Post by **Steve C.** » Sun Mar 21, 2004 10:02 am

One very basic rule I stick to is: "Never give a command you can not immediately enforce". This is for young dogs still being trained. Teach the "Down" command when the dog is within reach, not when he's 100 feet away. Once they learn this they will still test you from time to time but you must be able to enforce it; whether you use a collar or not. Joe West and I are probably the only two guys on earth who refuse to use the electronic collar (LOL) and while I'm not the type to insist that others shouldn't use it; I feel very strongly that they cover up bad traits in a dog. Before this leads to an argument about collars; let's leave it alone- this horse has been beaten 1,000 times and no one's mind has been changed. If it works for you, I certainly won't argue with it. I just want to point out that you still need to give young dogs their "basic training". Remember, collars are used to enforce commands, not teach good behavior. There are two schools of thought- positive and negative reinforcement; both work. Just keep in mind that with either method, you MUST do the yard work before taking them to the woods.

Joe West · Post by **Joe West** » Sun Mar 21, 2004 8:43 pm

Steve: We're not the only two nor are we even in the minority.

Steve C. · Post by **Steve C.** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:33 am

Joe, if we are in fact the majority it's only because we're too poor or too cheap! We've had a terrific hunting season here in Maine this year. There was a 3 or 4 week span of terribly cold weather (25 to 30 below zero with high winds) in January when we couldn't do anything but February and March have mostly been excellent. We had a couple of young hounds really step up this year along with a few disappointments but all in all I'm very pleased with the hounds. There's still a week left to the season but (knock on wood) this is the 9th consecutive year we have not had a trash run or a dog left in the woods when it was time to go home. I don't know what to attribute this to but I only keep hounds who refuse to run trash and are willing to obey commands. Run the young hounds with good straight veteran hounds and you minimize the risks. I don't know if there's any such thing as a trash-free bloodline but I've definately seen the tendency improve over the last 3 generations.

bob huffman · Post by **bob huffman** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:42 pm

If you breed dogs that need to be shocked to learn, then if you sell pups out of them you should give the new owner a shocking collar along with the deal for free. Anyone ever wonder how dogs for the blind are trained or circus dogs or dogs on TV that perform on command? It ssure as heck ain't with a shocking collar. If you need a collar to train one, you are not a dog trainer. Get another hobby that you know something about.

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Question: about correcting The Rabbit Dog

Question: about correcting The Rabbit Dog

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