how to pick the best bench dog.

[BBOARDING3]

A buddy of mine is having some pup in a few weeks and im looking to get a female out of the litter. I would really like to have one that could both kick butt on the bench along with in the field. I Have ran with both of the parents so im not really worried about the running the rabbit part but I know really know what to look for in a pup for the bench. any pointers???

[mike crabtree]

Straight Legs, tight feet. Nice ear set, with ears that reach the nose. A good scissor bite.

[JUDE]

Straight Legs, tight feet. Nice ear set, with ears that reach the nose. A good scissor bite.

Tight feet ?

[BBOARDING3]

i was thinking the same thing

[Beaglebrit]

[Straight Legs, tight feet. Nice ear set, with ears that reach the nose. A good scissor bite./quote]
I like that list, plus I would add outgoing personality, and a clear bright expression. Tight feet are very important...a splayed foot can allow for injury...A correct foot will have to have very little nail trimming...
A Hound runs on his feet!!! Feet are an important part of the running gear but often forgotten characteristic

[TC]

Straight Legs, tight feet. Nice ear set, with ears that reach the nose. A good scissor bite.

I agree Mike Good place to start!!

There is also a few other things that you should look for also to get your self the bench dog of your dreams...

At eight weeks of age is the best time to look at the pup. Get the standard from the registry that describes the dog, ARHA has the best one out there it is illustrated so gives you a clearer mind set on what to look for.
The angles of the shoulder to the back rear angulation Ect...

Take that standard with you. Look at each pup with a critical eye. What you see at 8 weeks generally you will see at 6 mon. Look at both parents and note thier faults as well for this may be underlying problems as well.

The pup should be well balanced at 8 weeks height versus length. Should look like it's minature self when full grown.

You will also want the pup with the out going personality. The one that says look at me look at me ain't I cute... The happy go lucky pup.

Good luck in your quest but the best advise is to get the standard out and study it, don't go there with I am getting a pup no matter what attitude or you might not end up with what you are really looking for.
Each person has thier own Idea in what they are lookin for in a Pup this is just where we start.

[Honey Pot Hounds]

Look for one with a nice topline and tailset too. That is one of the biggest faults that catches my eye when I look at field beagles on the bench.
JMHO
Cindy

[Beagled1]

Look for one with a nice topline and tailset too. That is one of the biggest faults that catches my eye when I look at field beagles on the bench.
JMHO
Cindy

I agree! I have a few with excellent structure/breed type - except for the gay tails or poos tailsets. It greatly detracts from the overall appearance, even if you have an otherwise well built hound ... and its murder to breed out!

[TOUCHSTONEBGLS]

Your best bet is to get someone who has been evaluating structure in pups for many years. Seak out some AKC beagle show breeders in your area and maybe they will help. Some AKC breeders have no interest in going out of their way to help feild guys but you may get lucky. Contact the local AKC all breed club. Even if you can't get a beagle breeder you may be able to find someone with enough knowledge to help give you perspective. The ears should extend well beyond the nose and be the right shape and set level with the eye in an 8 wk old pup. They grow into those ears. If they just reach the nose at 8 weeks the ears will be short when grown. Do you travel for hunts? What type of hunts do you do? Will help you find someone in your area or along your travels. They will be 8 wks old about the time of the UKC hunting Beagle National.Hmmmmm!

[TOUCHSTONEBGLS]

If you want a successful show dog you will need to socialize and work with them some. Should be standing pretty well on a table and gaiting down and back in a fairly straight line useing some treats. Can you post video of the pups front rear and side view both standing and gaiting correctly? Getting them trained well enough to have someone evaluate them for you would be a plus.

[blunder]

The first mistake most make is to stack a puppy and look down at it. You want to look at the puppy in a mirror so that you are looking at it from a judges prospective.

[Larry G]

I don't know where Lefgren Lane went, but he can explain it a lot better than I can, or most on this board. If you are going to show, that's one thing, if you are going to use your dog in the field and want proper structure for that, well that's another thing. Go to the thread about Windkist A Walk in the Park in this forum and study what he says.

If you are hopeful of winning AKC shows you will have to bring what they like to see, which is a cute lil' feller with a lot of front to rear slope, 12 o'clock poker tail with a little brush, cat feet, short blocky muzzle, etc. etc. something like the pic I posted on the New Male thread.

[TOUCHSTONEBGLS]

Larry G, I couldn't disagree more with your post. Not everything that Lefgren Lane posted is wrong but much is. I agree on a few of his points as I remember them. Don't want to waste my time to pull up the pages or to post them for others to be misled by his ramblings. Or was it babbling? A few things that I agree with is that SOME show breeders will breed for the flavor of the day. The style that is winning rather than staying true to the standard of what would best serve the dog's function. Many show breeders do not run a beagle in the field enough to even evaluate their dog's ability to perform. Some show breeders breed dogs that have way too much bulk to be effective. The correct breed type defines a dog that is refined in nature. Not fine boned, but the muscle type should be smooth not thick. It is not the thick bulging muscles you see on the outside that hurt as much as the thickening of muscle between the shoulder bone structure and body cavity. Too much greatly impedes endurance and agility. I also agree with part of his point about rear angulation. However it is bend of stifle that is overdone more than angulation from the hipbone. The overangulated bend of stifle also leads to the improper sloping topline on some show beagles. Many say rear angulation but mean bend of stifle. Another overlooked point is "well let down". Few show breeders can even tell you what it really means or why it is important. Some even misinterpret it as meaning too much bend of stifle. Thus part of the problem. "Well let down" indicates a shorter bone from the hock joint to the foot. The reason for this is because it allows for longer bones in the rear structure. That is significant because attached to longer bone is longer muscle. Longer muscle provides greater endurance than short thick muscle. If I recall correctly he also felt that many show beagles have too much body depth. The body needs to be deep and the ribcage should extend back to leave plenty of space for a well developed heart and lungs. I have seen more problem with short rib cages than with depth of body in show dogs. There are many correct show beagles that would serve function well. Much can be gained by selectively using correctly structured dogs to improve the structure of hunting dogs. I do agree that beagles were developed to chase its quarry to its death. That takes both endurance and agility. I have a 13 mo old hunt/show female that has caught 9 rabbits that I know of. Now I take her off of a track after several circles even when practicing. Was invited to run by a guy's house who has some "wild" San Juans and she caught two one day and one the next. Don't run her there any more. Could go on but would take volumes. Don't kid yourself. Those Windkist dogs are some of the best out there. If all the right hunt instincts had been bred in along with correct structure for all of those generations they would be hard to beat in any medium to medium fast speed format or for a rabbit hunter. Dan M

[Larry G]

Dan, without writing a book, I'll just say I respect your opinion and dedication, and we will just have to agree to disagree. As some of you know I do use show blood in my beagles, although I don't participate in AKC shows and don't want to. I think the separation between show folks of all hunting breeds here and abroad and the field folks is there for a pretty good reason. Now I do know a lady who has a show winning English Setter and she is trying to get it to do a little something in the field.... very little, even though it is with one of the best trainers in the south. And not much use entering one of Blackdirt's fine field dogs in an AKC bench competition. No offense to Blackdirt or his dogs.

I just want mine to have a bit of the best of both worlds and it is, to say the least a good challenge. And going back to a post you made about agility, I just watched the Purina Incredible Dog whatever finals and didn't see any beagles! Does anyone know of a beagle even competing in agility or flying disc exhibition? Watching that made me realize that the training I have done, mostly OB, force fetch and pointing dog up to senior hunter (never had a MH) didn't amount to much.

[Sandy Valley]

Dan,
From what I read, he felt that the show beagles did not have enough body depth, that's why he called them "trotters"-I felt it was an interesting and informative thread and he made some great points. JMO.