Bitch Eats Hare After Shooting
Moderators: Pike Ridge Beagles, Aaron Bartlett
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Wade
Bitch Eats Hare After Shooting
Have a friend who owns a decent bitch. After the hare is shot, she eats the ENTIRE hare, except head, skin, and feet. He keeps three or four packages of tapeworm medication on hand and has to give some after each hunt. We get plenty of exercise trying to race her to the kill. I have suggested shooting the bitch but he won't go along with that, so he/we need suggestions.
This is a long-shot, but maybe worth a thought. Is the hound good and trash-free? Aside from getting her away from the kill, how does she handle?
This doesn't sound like a trait that would be passed on, so if he really wants to keep this bitch, I'd say use an e-collar on her. If she doesn't need it for off-game or normal handling, he can use it for this. (Using the e-collar for too many things can certainly confuse the dog and if they need shocked for several different faults, they probably aren't worth saving anyway).
Let's assume she's trash-free and handles well otherwise. The important thing for her to learn is that she cannot eat the kill. She definitely needs to learn the command "Drop it". I would begin this training at home by placing a dead rabbit in the yard, her on a lead, and if she goes after the rabbit, tickle her on two while saying "no" and "drop it". Then promptly pick the rabbit up and put it in your game pouch in front of the bitch. This could be done with a "dropped sandwich" or any other food item you don't want her to have. If she goes for it, correct her repeating those commands. With enough repetition, she shouldn't be too surprised in the field if she gets tickled for grabbing the rabbit (assuming she's within view and you can choose the appropriate time to apply the juice).
This would certainly be a "Hail Mary" approach to correcting a problem, but I really don't think it would discourage her hunting on rabbit scent. She should make the association that she only gets tickled if she takes something after you tell her "No", which would include many items aside from rabbit, and never when she's running track. There will be plenty of fun running, etc. to offset the few times she gets disciplined.
This doesn't sound like a trait that would be passed on, so if he really wants to keep this bitch, I'd say use an e-collar on her. If she doesn't need it for off-game or normal handling, he can use it for this. (Using the e-collar for too many things can certainly confuse the dog and if they need shocked for several different faults, they probably aren't worth saving anyway).
Let's assume she's trash-free and handles well otherwise. The important thing for her to learn is that she cannot eat the kill. She definitely needs to learn the command "Drop it". I would begin this training at home by placing a dead rabbit in the yard, her on a lead, and if she goes after the rabbit, tickle her on two while saying "no" and "drop it". Then promptly pick the rabbit up and put it in your game pouch in front of the bitch. This could be done with a "dropped sandwich" or any other food item you don't want her to have. If she goes for it, correct her repeating those commands. With enough repetition, she shouldn't be too surprised in the field if she gets tickled for grabbing the rabbit (assuming she's within view and you can choose the appropriate time to apply the juice).
This would certainly be a "Hail Mary" approach to correcting a problem, but I really don't think it would discourage her hunting on rabbit scent. She should make the association that she only gets tickled if she takes something after you tell her "No", which would include many items aside from rabbit, and never when she's running track. There will be plenty of fun running, etc. to offset the few times she gets disciplined.
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Guest
I'm not a big proponent of shock collar use and don't feel it's a cure-all, especially when considering a breeding program, but for someone who needs to remotely correct his/her personal hunting dog, it can be pretty effective if done right.-
Alabama John
- Posts: 2116
- Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2002 5:56 pm
- Location: Pinson, Alabama
eating kill
I'm with Alabama John on this one, you have got to be kidding me.(LOL)(LOL)(LOL) Is she that close to the Hare that she can beat you to it? If that is the case don't shoot her I'll take her, let me know your price. If that isn't the case are you crippling them and she's catching them? If that is the case use bigger shot or get a bigger gun. My rationale for my dogs is if they catch them and I can't get their before they divide him up, then chalk one up for the dogs. I've never hunted Hare, but can't imagine them being any tougher than an Alabama or Georgia Cane Cutter and I nor any of my buddies have ever had a major problem with this. Best of luck to you. This post has truly made my day(LOL)(LOL)(LOL). If you are an older fellow or disabled then I apologize for laughing, if not(LOL)(LOL(LOL)
Big Dog
Big Dog
Black and Tans, Blue Ticks, and a few others bringing smoke
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Alabama John
- Posts: 2116
- Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2002 5:56 pm
- Location: Pinson, Alabama
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Rabt Fver
eating the hare
I have a male hound that is about the same, but won't eat it he just tenderizes the bjebbers out of it. The more you try to get it from the more he pulls. the end result of the tug o war is a 2 part bunny. I have found out that if i let him have it all to himself and not try to take it , walk the other way he wants nothing to do with it. I do have a suggestion though, they use this with birddogs so they will have a soft mouth when picking up the dead bird or duck. theres a harness you put on the bird with prongs, when they bite down to hard it hurts their mouth 
im sure you have seen these things.
im sure you have seen these things.