Kennel Probloms

magic_rabbit_hunter · Thu Jun 09, 2005 12:59 pm

My dogs have figured out how to get out of their 10x10x6 chain linked kennels. On the panel with the door they just get their teeth on the chain links on the door and pull up until there is like a hole there where they can just crawl out of. They basically bend the chain links up with their mouth until they can get out of it. I keep bending it back down, but they keep getting out and I live in a town where you get fined for loose dogs. Luckily I have not gotton caught with them out yet, but this is getting to be a real hassle.

beaglehandler · Post by **beaglehandler** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:43 pm

can you wire it in such a way that they cannot pull up on it

mike crabtree · Post by **mike crabtree** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:45 pm

Get you some Zip ties, and tie it down real tight.

Huntin54 · Post by **Huntin54** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:16 pm

Do what crabtree said.

keith2210 · Post by **keith2210** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:28 pm

i had a dog that would do that and i did exactly what mike crabtree did. put a bunch of them on there though. you will be amazed at how determined those dogs really are...keith

Peterman · Post by **Peterman** » Thu Jun 09, 2005 9:21 pm

Yeah I'd go with the Zip ties, those things are pretty strong!

WrongsideRandy · Post by **WrongsideRandy** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:17 am

This just happened to me over the weekend. Ties would have been nice to have had.....but I improvised with a country boys favorite item, baling wire. I wrapped the wire under the bottom rail and up thru the fence and back under the rail.......until I had went all the way around.

Catfish · Post by **Catfish** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:08 am

I have two chain link kennls, I tried the plastic ties. They work for a little while, but the dogs. Realized that it was plastic and work on it and got out. The only thing that I found that works, is cut a piece of plywood about 2 feet high and a little wider than the door,put it up aganist the door with a cement block aganist the ply wood the dogs have not got out in a year. Its a little bit of a hassle steping over the ply wood but the dogs don't get out.

Catfish

gus · Post by **gus** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 10:40 am

There are as many ways to fix the problem as there are posters. By a piece of the flat bar that is used in the corners of chain link fence. Cut it to the length of the inside dimensions of your gate. Run it through the mesh of the fence fabric at the bottom of the gate. Then, depending on the length of the gate. Use several of those hooks that connect the fence to the corners, along the bottom of the gate. I'm sure you local fence dealer, Lowes, can supply the materials you need at a reasonable price. It beats losing a hound or paying a fine.
You can't use plastic on many hounds. I have a young dog that would eat the fence if possible. Plastic will just teach them there is a reward, freedom, if they're determined.

magic_rabbit_hunter · Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:11 am

I will either do what crabtree said or use the plywood idea it will probally be easier to use them ideas. I can't really do no welding don't have the equipment. Thanks for all the ideas though I didn't realize I would get so many. I appreciate them all.

KPrice · Post by **KPrice** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:08 pm

Bailing wire and plastic ties are kept in good stock around my place.
I have patched up plenty of holes just as these guys described.
Another thing to think about is to keep some extra welded wire fencing around. If the wire gets too bent up from dogs trying to get out, you can easily cut out a piece of welded wire and lay right over the bad stop. The replacement piece of fence can be held in with bailing wire or plastic ties.

LoneStarBeagler · Post by **LoneStarBeagler** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:16 pm

I used the same bailing wire method as WrongsideRandy. I haven't had a single problem since.

warddog · Post by **warddog** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:20 pm

On my chain link kennels I have used the metal coat hangers to wrap around the kennel tubing and the chain links that come in contact with it to secure week spots. I had a young male that kept getting out about a monmth ago and I couldn't figure how he was excaping as he had been in that kennel for over a year without being able to get out. As I fed one day I set his feed out of the kennel, went back into the house and watched him from the window. Sure enough I watch him in action. My kennels have the dog houses on the outside so there is an upside down "U" bent tube frame around the opening and the chain link attaches to that. Down at the bottom he had nosed long enough that he had some of the wire attachments broken off. The funny part was that the chain link fence would pop back into place after he squeezed through it and you couldn't tell anything was wrong. I went out with a coat hanger, a pair of wire cutters, a pair of pliers and made the repair. I bent the coat hanger around the tubing frame, through the chain link "V", twisted it snug, cut off the excess coat hanger and bent the twisted end over so it would not stick out with a sharp edge. He's not escaped since the repair. Three things it's hard to do without, baling wire, duct tape and coat hangers.

S.R.Patch · Post by **S.R.Patch** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:31 pm

Thats the problem with the lite gauge kennel wire and panels, a determined dog can chew and tug the wire into a gap for escape. We use the lite wire for puppies pen and also cut it up, to use as ties for the heavy gauge wire on the kennels. If you've a bitch in season, the lite stuff won't keep a determined dog from getting in to her...
I've no doubt if you block the gate hole, they will next move along the side panels looking for a weak spot to work on. The companies do not put enought ties on these lite wire panels and if one would add a extra 2 ties between every one that came standard on them, it would be about right.
When we had your problem, I took my long handled channellocks and used them as a pry bar in the bottom loop of chainlink, where they had done the damage. I pried it back in shape by sticking the handle through the bottom chainlink, and then, under the bottom pipe frame and pushed down until the links were formed proper again and the wire was back low enough along the pipe frame to be tied in place.
Adding extra(metal) tie wires when the panels are new is a great investment and also, when the bottom of the panels are startinting to show wear after some time, flip the panels over, putting the bottom to the top(don't forget to move your pipe caps when you make the flip, or the pipes will fill with just enough water to split them in the winter freeze), then, repaint the top section that was near the ground and it will last twice as long(kind of like rotating your tires on the car...lol). More metal ties are what you need to make the hounds give up their idea. Now that they've been sucessful once, they'll keep up the notion untill you prove it useless to them.

Best of luck...Patch

Lefgren-Lane · Post by **Lefgren-Lane** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 2:05 pm

The zip ties do not weather well, at least around here, (MO) and the beagles do figure out how to remove. Use wire etc. Much more reliable. For temp (and sometimes permanent. LOL) around here I always keep a bag of "rebar tie wires" (you can get them at most construction supply or places that sell rebar etc.) that are used to wire rebar together. etc. If you know an ironworker or have a construction project going on around you can ask about anyone around there. They can direct you where to find, show you etc. They come about 600 or so to a bag for about 7 dollars for the 6 inch length. Then get the wire twist tool, about 4 bucks and you will have a way to do some quick fixes. I also use them to tie chicken wire for apron fence etc. along the bottom of a fence to stop digging etc. or overlay and tie piece a of welded wire or whatever I can lay my hands on over a place that needs patched etc. (Hog nose rings and the ringer pliers tool also work pretty good for hooking up apron fences, putting patches over areas etc, although they are more expensive than the wire tie deal, but more permanent.) The wire ties come in different lengths, sizes etc. They even make them in stainless. (No idea what they would cost.) Herron Wire Products is one manufacturer. They will rust up and you may have to do some replacement after a couple years. For extra strength I just double or triple them up. Work for hooking up cheap welded wire to steel posts also if you are building a temp dog yard, pen or run.