Have any of you guys ever used the livestock panels for kennel fencing. The smallest hole size I have seen in it is the goat panels and they are 2"x4" holes and 16'x5' panels. Would this hole size be too large for beagles. Trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start my new kennels and wanting something I can use for my beagles as well as my coonhounds. Wanting something heavy cause I have a coonhound that has chewed my chainlink kennel and I'm kinda tired of mending it. Have found some of the heavy chainlink but its way more expensive than buying the panels if they would work.
Also for you folks that have concrete floor kennels, I'll be putting in a 6" drain for washdown purposes to eventually go to a septic. Where would be the best place to put the drain, front, middle or back. Would rather have it in the back but dont want to be spraying water torwards the houses. Am thinking in the center would be best so I wouldnt be tripping in it when feeding if it were in the front and dogs wouldnt have to jump over to get in and out of houses in back. Would welcom any and all feedback. Already have floorplans drawn out just looking for the best material and drain locations.
Thanks
kennel fencing and floor drains
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kennel fencing and floor drains
Jeff Driver
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JD Baisden
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:19 pm
- Location: MINFORD, OHIO
I use 11 ga. chain link for all my kennels and it's fine. I would think 2"x4" would be all right, unless a pup could get its head in there. One other thing, I've got 2 males that flat tore each other up through my chain link, there's now kennels separating them and I'm going to build a few more, & put them next to each other w/ a 3 1/2' piece of plywood separating the 2.
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Past home of FC DEATON'S BO & FC DEVIL'S HOLE HONEY BEE
Re: kennel fencing and floor drains
The 2"X4" pannels are the best, chainlink is hard on toenails if you've had any torn off hounds. Lay a couple row of blocks up to divide kennels and put your pannels on top of this, you can motar the support pipes in the blocks to fasten the pannels to.BlueJack wrote:Have any of you guys ever used the livestock panels for kennel fencing. The smallest hole size I have seen in it is the goat panels and they are 2"x4" holes and 16'x5' panels. Would this hole size be too large for beagles. Trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start my new kennels and wanting something I can use for my beagles as well as my coonhounds. Wanting something heavy cause I have a coonhound that has chewed my chainlink kennel and I'm kinda tired of mending it. Have found some of the heavy chainlink but its way more expensive than buying the panels if they would work.
Also for you folks that have concrete floor kennels, I'll be putting in a 6" drain for washdown purposes to eventually go to a septic. Where would be the best place to put the drain, front, middle or back. Would rather have it in the back but dont want to be spraying water torwards the houses. Am thinking in the center would be best so I wouldnt be tripping in it when feeding if it were in the front and dogs wouldnt have to jump over to get in and out of houses in back. Would welcom any and all feedback. Already have floorplans drawn out just looking for the best material and drain locations.
Thanks
I have a 12" wide trench(wide enough for a flat bottom shovel) formed in concrete, it slopes from 3" to 12" deep. We also formed a lip along each side, so I could cover it with grating and it was flush with the rest of the floor. I shovel up all solid waste and wash the rest down the trench.
A 6" drain could be under floor and covered with a removeable drain cover. You could put one at the back corner of each kennel (that way you would wash towards a corner) and remove the cover when you wash down and replace it when done. This would contain all water and waste if you mortar in the concrete blocks and put pannels on top plus, your pannels won't be getting wet and peeded on all the time and rust out...
My dogs are 13 inch and I was concerned about them being able to get their head stuck. All my runs would be for adult dog not puppies. I can salvage the most of my above ground kennel and rebuild it for puppies when and if I ever need it. Will also serve as a "heat" pen for my female since I normally kennel male/female beagles together.
JD, did the height of the panels cause any concerns does any of yours try to poke a head through?
SR the 6" drain will be pvc pipe cut in half and run the length of all 4 kennels and if I take it right basically the same as your 12" trench. The grate to cover it up with isnt a bad idea either. Just wasnt sure to run it through the midde front or rear. Really like the idea of running a couple rows of block before I run panel walls but there will be a leggy coonhound occupying one run and I think 2 rows of blocks he would clear and not sure if Id like 3 rows. One thing I did in the chainlink kennel he stays in is put 2 concrete blocks standing up next to the fence where his and the females kennel is side by side and instead of him wizzin on the fence all the time he uses the blocks as his "marker".
Thanks guys for the input.
JD, did the height of the panels cause any concerns does any of yours try to poke a head through?
SR the 6" drain will be pvc pipe cut in half and run the length of all 4 kennels and if I take it right basically the same as your 12" trench. The grate to cover it up with isnt a bad idea either. Just wasnt sure to run it through the midde front or rear. Really like the idea of running a couple rows of block before I run panel walls but there will be a leggy coonhound occupying one run and I think 2 rows of blocks he would clear and not sure if Id like 3 rows. One thing I did in the chainlink kennel he stays in is put 2 concrete blocks standing up next to the fence where his and the females kennel is side by side and instead of him wizzin on the fence all the time he uses the blocks as his "marker".
Thanks guys for the input.
Jeff Driver
The pannels I got were 2"X4" openings top to bottom, not the ones that have bigger openings towards the top. No grown hound can get their head through these pannels. There are hog & cattle pannels that have the bigger openings, are these what your thinking of?
If I were using the 6" pvc, I would use the open drain hole in a corner & go under the floor. The spray washing would blow most of the water and waste over the narrow halfpipe trough anyway, unless there was a row of block behind it to stop the overspray.
Ronnieg has this pic of a kennel on his web page, it's similar to what we're talking about...
Notice the trench in front of the kennel runs... I'd guess the kennels slope from back to the front for good drainage...
If I were using the 6" pvc, I would use the open drain hole in a corner & go under the floor. The spray washing would blow most of the water and waste over the narrow halfpipe trough anyway, unless there was a row of block behind it to stop the overspray.
Ronnieg has this pic of a kennel on his web page, it's similar to what we're talking about...
Notice the trench in front of the kennel runs... I'd guess the kennels slope from back to the front for good drainage...
I looked at the panels and they should work fine,We Built our Runs out of Welded Wire and Conduit had the pad poured with a slope to the front placed the PVC in front . Also the overspray is a problem So i am Gonna solve that by pouring concrete in front with a trough and a 30 inch walk with a retaining wall so all i gotta do is wash the walk down also
Gonna make some changes in the next few Mo Starting with the Blocks Really like that idea and not to late.i did place some 4X4 pee posts for the males. Saves on the panels.....If i could do it over again i would have placed the drains before they poured the cement with a drain at the front.........
http://home.earthlink.net/~crewsenbeagles2/
Gonna make some changes in the next few Mo Starting with the Blocks Really like that idea and not to late.i did place some 4X4 pee posts for the males. Saves on the panels.....If i could do it over again i would have placed the drains before they poured the cement with a drain at the front.........
http://home.earthlink.net/~crewsenbeagles2/
From Field to Show and Show to Field the way it should be
SR, yes it is the 2"x4" top to bottom goat panels not the cattle or hog panels that change sizes closer to the top. Nice pic at least I can see where the location of the trench is and after seeing it outside seems like the place for it. Like the idea of forming it in the concrete and making it bigger. Never thought about overspray either. See I knew this board was handy.
Jeff Driver
My troughs are formed in the concrete at the rear of each kennel, I didn't want to be washing the waste out onto where my walkway is. I've got the blocks to put up yet. I've got kennels under a 30X48 opensided bolebarn, 5 kennels on each side with a 6' walkway down the middle. The hounds have about destroyed my kennel pannels after only 10 years. Putting them up on the blocks should save them.
My friend Roy Clinkard told me, put a coating of motar over the blocks after you have them set, this will seal them and keep them from absorbing urine as block is porous, otherwise, you'll have to paint them with a sealer and Roy says, he hates painting...
My friend Roy Clinkard told me, put a coating of motar over the blocks after you have them set, this will seal them and keep them from absorbing urine as block is porous, otherwise, you'll have to paint them with a sealer and Roy says, he hates painting...
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JD Baisden
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:19 pm
- Location: MINFORD, OHIO
OK the concrete guy came over and after we talked about it for a while with what I wanted and getting his input about how he has done kennels in the past and ideas here we came to our final plan for construction on all but 1 thing. Instead of laying block we are going to form and pour concrete and have the kennel fencing sit on it that way. He said he was confident that it would be less maintenance keeping concrete sealed than it would be to keep the blocks sealed as they are more pourous and would take more to do plus he lays block also and said the price difference would be very minimal. It will cost about $750 more than original price of pad alone to have the divider walls poured and an extra 3' walkway in front with washdown drain formed and poured in concrete rather than trying to cut the pvc pipe with a splash wall formed and poured behind the drain that was not in the original plans. The only thing we disagree on is the finish of the floors. He suggest a smooth finish for less wear on pads of feet and I have always thought a very lightly textured finish for better traction but not textured enough to wear on the pads. What are you guys experience with the floor finish. What kind of sealer do you folks reccommend for the floor, name brand, where to buy, ect.
SR after thinking about it and talking with my contractor we really liked the idea of having the kennel fencing on the divider walls just in case 1 of the dogs gets sick then the waste wont either be able to run to the joining kennel or be washed over there. The only difference in what Im doing and the pic you posted other than going with a poured wall instead of blocks is I will have a walkway between the drain and the kennels so I am not breaking an ankle in the drain. Also not going quite as high with the dividers so all the dogs can still socialize and see one another without them trying to climb to see what each other is doing. My big male coonhound will be the only dog I have that may be able to pee over the concrete wall and if that is the case there can easily be a modification made but I dont think it will be a problem.
I am very anxious to get this thing started. It will be so great to not have to see all the holes and muddy mess when it rains. Should make my work in the kennel much much easier as well as a more healthy environment for the dogs.
SR after thinking about it and talking with my contractor we really liked the idea of having the kennel fencing on the divider walls just in case 1 of the dogs gets sick then the waste wont either be able to run to the joining kennel or be washed over there. The only difference in what Im doing and the pic you posted other than going with a poured wall instead of blocks is I will have a walkway between the drain and the kennels so I am not breaking an ankle in the drain. Also not going quite as high with the dividers so all the dogs can still socialize and see one another without them trying to climb to see what each other is doing. My big male coonhound will be the only dog I have that may be able to pee over the concrete wall and if that is the case there can easily be a modification made but I dont think it will be a problem.
I am very anxious to get this thing started. It will be so great to not have to see all the holes and muddy mess when it rains. Should make my work in the kennel much much easier as well as a more healthy environment for the dogs.
Jeff Driver
Sounds like you have a plan... 
I'm going with block wall dividers for two reasons.
1- Block is much cheaper and I can do it myself.
2- My kennel building is set-up to be a garage if I move, or the next owner (after I pass) is not a keeper of hounds, he can simply knock the block out with hammer, put up the outside wall covering and over-head doors and have a 30 X 48' shop/garage.
The poured dividers makes the expensive concrete pad of little use for anything else but kennels.
As far as the trough placement, I like to wash from front to back of pen (don't have to drag extra hose into each kennel to wash. My trough is 3' to the inside of the outter edge of side walls and runs the length of kennels down each side, concrete slopes both ways towards trench to drain. All concrete needs good slope to drain and dry quickly. The grating formed into the trench covering is fiberglass, so it's light/strong and easy to remove if you want.
I want a light broom finish on the floor, I've busted my butt and twisted my ankle on wet/frozen/icey smooth floors.
Houses outside kennels leave the hounds more room inside, but a low flat top house inside, also makes a good laying bench to allow hounds time off the concrete (yes, hounds can jump onto the flat roofs, even my little 13" hounds jump upon their 22" flat roofed doghouse to pile up and sleep on the warm summer nights. This also works as an escape when bitches are weaning pups...
I still don't like the idea of washing across walkway, do you live where the water never freezes? All slope of concrete will com to the outside walkway which means pee will come out, and during rainy times, crap and pee will be washed out onto walkway. Think "all seasons"... If snow and ice build up, can you still get the kennel gates open? is it all going to be under roof?
Just trying to help you "measure twice and cut once"... ...I cut a board three times once, and it was still to short... 
ps.. Oh, another thing, my kennels being under roof, my gutters slope to the east and all water collected during the rain is come down the spouts and dumped into the drain trough that drains to the west. So every time it rains good, my trenches get a washing out for free...
I'm going with block wall dividers for two reasons.
1- Block is much cheaper and I can do it myself.
2- My kennel building is set-up to be a garage if I move, or the next owner (after I pass) is not a keeper of hounds, he can simply knock the block out with hammer, put up the outside wall covering and over-head doors and have a 30 X 48' shop/garage.
The poured dividers makes the expensive concrete pad of little use for anything else but kennels.
As far as the trough placement, I like to wash from front to back of pen (don't have to drag extra hose into each kennel to wash. My trough is 3' to the inside of the outter edge of side walls and runs the length of kennels down each side, concrete slopes both ways towards trench to drain. All concrete needs good slope to drain and dry quickly. The grating formed into the trench covering is fiberglass, so it's light/strong and easy to remove if you want.
I want a light broom finish on the floor, I've busted my butt and twisted my ankle on wet/frozen/icey smooth floors.
Houses outside kennels leave the hounds more room inside, but a low flat top house inside, also makes a good laying bench to allow hounds time off the concrete (yes, hounds can jump onto the flat roofs, even my little 13" hounds jump upon their 22" flat roofed doghouse to pile up and sleep on the warm summer nights. This also works as an escape when bitches are weaning pups...
I still don't like the idea of washing across walkway, do you live where the water never freezes? All slope of concrete will com to the outside walkway which means pee will come out, and during rainy times, crap and pee will be washed out onto walkway. Think "all seasons"... If snow and ice build up, can you still get the kennel gates open? is it all going to be under roof?
Just trying to help you "measure twice and cut once"...
...I cut a board three times once, and it was still to short... ps.. Oh, another thing, my kennels being under roof, my gutters slope to the east and all water collected during the rain is come down the spouts and dumped into the drain trough that drains to the west. So every time it rains good, my trenches get a washing out for free...
All of my kennel will be under roof as well as the walkway. I fact I have budgeted to run the roofing around 3 feet past the end of kennel all the way around to keep as much rain and snow out as possible. The rear wall of the kennel will be the back side of the hay barn which has been converted to an extra garage and the dog houses will be placed on the inside of the shed though that may be down the road a small piece. For now I am mainly concerned about getting this done since I have all the bids and thoughts in place and most importantly the wifes blessing. LOL As for the block, that is initially what I wanted but since that is something I have never done and would have to have someone do it for me to make sure it was done right my contractor gave me a bid for both and the price difference was virtually non existant so that is why I chose the poured wall. If laying block was something I felt I could do myself and do it right that may be a different story. We just built our house and got moved in 2 years ago this coming Christmas Eve on the family farm and I could not be happier where I am and definately have no intentions of leaving so the permanent wall structure is really of no concern. Also when I get the houses built inside the shed I have already thought of the flat top for them to lay on during the summer and actually thought of building it around the entry of the doghouse. One, as you stated all dogs like to lay on top of their houses if they can get up there including mine at the present and two, it would serve as an extra "windbreak" during the cold weather. Love the downspout idea. To be honest that one never crossed my mind to put it running down to wash down the trough. Excellent call!! With the exception of the concrete I plan on doing the rest myself. Went to TSC today and bought the horse panels with 2"x4" holes. The goat panel were 4"x4". I had the right hole size just wrong name panel. DUH on me. After much deliberation on trough placement I decided to go across the walkway just for the fact that hopefully in the unlikely event that I have a sick dog I at least wont cross contaminate when washing out the kennels. Really give it long thought about putting single drains in each kennel and running under the pad but just felt this was the way to go. Just felt like it would be easier to wash straight out the door and down the drain than taking off grating every day. Could be wrong, hope Im not though. I guess my biggest thought there was I didnt want to be spraying torwards the doghouse doors. I guess my thinking was the way I should virtuall never get any water splashing inside and get bedding area wet. That may be a foolish thought I dont know but that was my thinking on it and I never claimed to be the smartest. Oh well, with the way my work schedule is and trying to get this accomplished by myself I hope that within a month I will have a finished kennel and can share some pics with all on every message board that has helped. Thanks a ton guys.
Jeff Driver